Big Surf in the Northwest
Big boards again.. The surfs been big and windy lately, but if you keep an eye on it there's usually an opportunity to get a wave. On this particular day there were blind take-offs, late drops made & lost, boards ditched, boulders clung to underwater and lots of laughs to be had.
This session at a big left was pretty solid and super fun. We met some European girls looking for a way across to get to the sea to take photos. We offerd to take them and they followed us around the church, over the wall & through the spongy, wet feild to the edge of the sea. No sooner had they arrived at there destination than the rain arrived in sheets, sending them running for there campervan.
We surfed for a few hours until the wind became too much to deal with, then retreated to the luxery of the Transit van to get changed into our warm & dry clothes. Back at Joe's cottage afterwards there was foamy latte's which we decided were ok for all types & talk of a roadtrip in the coming weeks.